Equipment hack
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twilliams You are getting stronger…
calldoctoday would be nice if that was the case



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calldoctoday would be nice if that was the case



twilliams a 15" slicer, wholey Carp! Hobart or??
You better have a place for the forklift to set it! Cause you ain’t gonna be moving it.
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GWG8541 I stepped down to the 11 lb just for the wife as she is the one that cranks while I manage the stuff. With comments being that the crank was easier since the diameter was smaller I chose to get it for that purpose. That is not the case, she had a harder time cranking more than my 20lb. I ended up doing it while I put pressure on casing to fill and she just held it up to get the length I wanted as I stuffed. As far as 11lb goes that is not accurate either. I made two 11lb batches. I only got approximately 8 lbs in and had to refill. The cylinder appears to be thin walled and not as robust. The gears and shaft appear to be very nicely built, not sure what the clicking of every notch in the gear was all about. I thought is was a locking mechanism so it would not back travel but that was not the case. The horn for the 19mm is better than my other one. Maybe I will do a pros and cons list tomorrow
twilliams said in Equipment hack:
GWG8541 I stepped down to the 11 lb just for the wife as she is the one that cranks while I manage the stuff. With comments being that the crank was easier since the diameter was smaller I chose to get it for that purpose. That is not the case, she had a harder time cranking more than my 20lb. I ended up doing it while I put pressure on casing to fill and she just held it up to get the length I wanted as I stuffed. The gears and shaft appear to be very nicely built, not sure what the clicking of every notch in the gear was all about. The horn for the 19mm is better than my other one.
Ok, I’m confused.
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twilliams a 15" slicer, wholey Carp! Hobart or??
You better have a place for the forklift to set it! Cause you ain’t gonna be moving it.
@dennyo Hobart would be preferred
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twilliams said in Equipment hack:
GWG8541 I stepped down to the 11 lb just for the wife as she is the one that cranks while I manage the stuff. With comments being that the crank was easier since the diameter was smaller I chose to get it for that purpose. That is not the case, she had a harder time cranking more than my 20lb. I ended up doing it while I put pressure on casing to fill and she just held it up to get the length I wanted as I stuffed. The gears and shaft appear to be very nicely built, not sure what the clicking of every notch in the gear was all about. The horn for the 19mm is better than my other one.
Ok, I’m confused.
@dennyo lol, what’s got you confused?
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@DennyO is it where I said the horn appears to be better than my other one? That was not in reference to crank pressure, it is a smaller diameter so the 19mm casings just slide right over the horn. With my cabelas one I have to cut the full length casings in thirds and physically force the casings on. Not terrible by any means but annoying. However, after using them both yesterday for the test I’m not sure which one I like better, they both have their annoyance. The cabelas you have to force the casing on but the meat doesn’t back travel between the horn and casing. The Walton’s horn is smaller outside diameter so the casing slips right over, however that allows the casing sleeve to slide around and allow meat to back travel. Again not terrible just annoying. As I said yesterday both horns showed no difference in crank pressure
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@DennyO is it where I said the horn appears to be better than my other one? That was not in reference to crank pressure, it is a smaller diameter so the 19mm casings just slide right over the horn. With my cabelas one I have to cut the full length casings in thirds and physically force the casings on. Not terrible by any means but annoying. However, after using them both yesterday for the test I’m not sure which one I like better, they both have their annoyance. The cabelas you have to force the casing on but the meat doesn’t back travel between the horn and casing. The Walton’s horn is smaller outside diameter so the casing slips right over, however that allows the casing sleeve to slide around and allow meat to back travel. Again not terrible just annoying. As I said yesterday both horns showed no difference in crank pressure
twilliams You said “That is not the case, she had a harder time cranking more than my 20lb.”
Then later you state" well after the test there is absolutely no difference in crank pressure from the Walton’s horn to the cabelas horn. I was surprised. On a positive note the crank pressure was so much less today, really baffles me because I used 100ml less of water on this batch compared to last weekends batch."
Did your batch have cure in it?
I’ve always stuffed directly after mixing then let it set in the fridge overnight. I’ve come to understand that after mixing it needs to be stuffed and waiting is nearly impossible, just what I’ve read. -
@DennyO is it where I said the horn appears to be better than my other one? That was not in reference to crank pressure, it is a smaller diameter so the 19mm casings just slide right over the horn. With my cabelas one I have to cut the full length casings in thirds and physically force the casings on. Not terrible by any means but annoying. However, after using them both yesterday for the test I’m not sure which one I like better, they both have their annoyance. The cabelas you have to force the casing on but the meat doesn’t back travel between the horn and casing. The Walton’s horn is smaller outside diameter so the casing slips right over, however that allows the casing sleeve to slide around and allow meat to back travel. Again not terrible just annoying. As I said yesterday both horns showed no difference in crank pressure
twilliams did you check the vent on the piston? I used my new Waltons #11 for the first time this weekend. It was really hard to crank. Then I noticed the vent is adjustable and was completely screwed down tight from the factory. I loosened it up a couple turns and it was a huge improvement.
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After a few batches hand cranking I upgraded to the LEM 30 lb electric stuffer. You can stuff a 30lb batch into 19mm casings in about 20 minutes.mfrievalt man that is a great looking stuffer. Congrats
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Stop showing me things I havta buy! Really nice unit there
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After a few batches hand cranking I upgraded to the LEM 30 lb electric stuffer. You can stuff a 30lb batch into 19mm casings in about 20 minutes.mfrievalt I have the 20 lb model, it is nice when I do big jobs, I have a Walton’s 11 lber for smaller jobs.
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It’s so nice to use the 11 lb unit. It is just the perfect size for home use
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twilliams there is a different company out there that sells these. They come in a few different sizes. A metal plunger to clear out the tube and then a brush for cleaning. Thought about trying them instead of using a wooden spoon handle (mine are actually plastic) I even thought about buying a couple different size dowel rods to try.

Randie N I have those and they do work, the real advantage is they are stainless steel so when done I just put them in the dish washer and call it a day.
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Well, they are in stock and ready to order https://www.waltonsinc.com/waltons-stuffer-clearing-eggs Obviously they are the best color! Yes, Orange is the best color, it just isn’t the best HAT color
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Very first time I tried them, I did exactly what it says not to do on the website. Stuffing liverwurst and stuffed the ball in the casing and sealed it up and put in with the rest to dry. Went back to the stuffer and no ball.
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Another equipment hack I did tonight, probably a little late but anyhoo.
So how many people use mineral oil to condition your rubber seal on your smoker door to keep it from getting brittle and/or sticking to the smoker cabinet edge surface?
Tonight I was vacuum sealing up the latest batch of snack sticks and I just couldn’t get a good suction on some of the bags. After looking at the foam at the suction port right next to the seal bar it was very brittle and dry almost like it was deteriorating. I took a damp wash cloth and patted it all down. And wouldn’t you know, it sucked like a champ. So that gave me the idea that I should be conditioning that as well with mineral oil. Just a light coat after each final use before storage is all it needs.
I’m also gonna use it for the rubber seals on my truck doors. Should keep it from freezing shut I would think.
Caution……besides the smoker being true the other items is just theory and has not been proven yet……in the works.

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Another equipment hack I did tonight, probably a little late but anyhoo.
So how many people use mineral oil to condition your rubber seal on your smoker door to keep it from getting brittle and/or sticking to the smoker cabinet edge surface?
Tonight I was vacuum sealing up the latest batch of snack sticks and I just couldn’t get a good suction on some of the bags. After looking at the foam at the suction port right next to the seal bar it was very brittle and dry almost like it was deteriorating. I took a damp wash cloth and patted it all down. And wouldn’t you know, it sucked like a champ. So that gave me the idea that I should be conditioning that as well with mineral oil. Just a light coat after each final use before storage is all it needs.
I’m also gonna use it for the rubber seals on my truck doors. Should keep it from freezing shut I would think.
Caution……besides the smoker being true the other items is just theory and has not been proven yet……in the works.

twilliams Those are great hacks. Thanks.
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Another equipment hack I did tonight, probably a little late but anyhoo.
So how many people use mineral oil to condition your rubber seal on your smoker door to keep it from getting brittle and/or sticking to the smoker cabinet edge surface?
Tonight I was vacuum sealing up the latest batch of snack sticks and I just couldn’t get a good suction on some of the bags. After looking at the foam at the suction port right next to the seal bar it was very brittle and dry almost like it was deteriorating. I took a damp wash cloth and patted it all down. And wouldn’t you know, it sucked like a champ. So that gave me the idea that I should be conditioning that as well with mineral oil. Just a light coat after each final use before storage is all it needs.
I’m also gonna use it for the rubber seals on my truck doors. Should keep it from freezing shut I would think.
Caution……besides the smoker being true the other items is just theory and has not been proven yet……in the works.

twilliams I had been using silicone oil, some of the same food grade stuff I use on the grinder parts, etc. But maybe your idea may work better it sounds like. Made up seven plus quarts of turkey bone broth tonight & processed them. Need to try your idea on my pressure canner seals too instead of the silicone oil.
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Another equipment hack I did tonight, probably a little late but anyhoo.
So how many people use mineral oil to condition your rubber seal on your smoker door to keep it from getting brittle and/or sticking to the smoker cabinet edge surface?
Tonight I was vacuum sealing up the latest batch of snack sticks and I just couldn’t get a good suction on some of the bags. After looking at the foam at the suction port right next to the seal bar it was very brittle and dry almost like it was deteriorating. I took a damp wash cloth and patted it all down. And wouldn’t you know, it sucked like a champ. So that gave me the idea that I should be conditioning that as well with mineral oil. Just a light coat after each final use before storage is all it needs.
I’m also gonna use it for the rubber seals on my truck doors. Should keep it from freezing shut I would think.
Caution……besides the smoker being true the other items is just theory and has not been proven yet……in the works.

twilliams great hack. Thanks

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