Equipment Category
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yes I was thinking of putting smaller parts on a bigger stuffer and not changing the gear ratio of the machine
craigrice said in Equipment Category:
yes I was thinking of putting smaller parts on a bigger stuffer and not changing the gear ratio of the machine
So if you could just replace a large cylinder and piston with a smaller diameter one, then yes, it should have more mechanical advantage and require less force to turn the crank.
My old antique cast iron stuffers are harder to modify like that. What I did was lengthen the crank handles which has the same effect of lessening the amount of effort needed to turn it.
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In a mechanical setup like a stuffer, smaller pistons require less input force than larger pistons. So just changing out the large piston for a smaller one, will make it easier. Changing the gearing or handle length only makes it easier to turn. It doesn’t reduce the force required to move the piston. Just makes that force easier to apply. So you could get in a situation that you apply more force than you frame can handle and break something. The key to using small stuffing tubes is smaller diameter piston stuffers. On a side note, a 3/8” tube is the smallest you can put on a #5 stuffing can without an adapter. The nut is smaller than the larger stuffers.
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That’s my 1940 model 410 Hobart. Elk roast pumped with Waltons garlic herb seasoning.
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craigrice said in Equipment Category:
yes I was thinking of putting smaller parts on a bigger stuffer and not changing the gear ratio of the machine
So if you could just replace a large cylinder and piston with a smaller diameter one, then yes, it should have more mechanical advantage and require less force to turn the crank.
My old antique cast iron stuffers are harder to modify like that. What I did was lengthen the crank handles which has the same effect of lessening the amount of effort needed to turn it.
processhead I tried that very same theory on my stuffer. Didn’t work out quite as planned. I had to replace all the gears the longer handle striped out. Lesson learned, I your mix is to stiff to stuff add a little bit more water.
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processhead I tried that very same theory on my stuffer. Didn’t work out quite as planned. I had to replace all the gears the longer handle striped out. Lesson learned, I your mix is to stiff to stuff add a little bit more water.
mdseaside said in Equipment Category:
processhead I tried that very same theory on my stuffer. Didn’t work out quite as planned. I had to replace all the gears the longer handle striped out. Lesson learned, I your mix is to stiff to stuff add a little bit more water.
Sorry to hear that. What brand of stuffer was it?
The two stuffer’s that I have extended the handles on were both antique cast iron stuffers and build like tanks.
Paul
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They don’t build them like they used to, that’s for sure.
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mdseaside said in Equipment Category:
processhead I tried that very same theory on my stuffer. Didn’t work out quite as planned. I had to replace all the gears the longer handle striped out. Lesson learned, I your mix is to stiff to stuff add a little bit more water.
Sorry to hear that. What brand of stuffer was it?
The two stuffer’s that I have extended the handles on were both antique cast iron stuffers and build like tanks.
processhead in the butcher shop I worked in when I was younger they had a cast iron stuffer the first one I ever used it looked like one in your pic.
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I’ve only used one brand of stuffer a F. D i c k from Germany. I have the 30 pound unit and have used it for many years. When looking at other stuffers, this brand seems to have a much narrower cylinder and piston. It is a VERY tall unit and very heavy. I have only used the fast gearing to raise the cylinder, and always used the slower gearing to stuff casing, including 16 to 18 mm sheep. Never had a problem. Threaded systems allow for only one speed and those old units were made for multiple functions, fruit press, meat stuffing, juicer. Never have I compared handle length, which is like a lever - “give me a lever and I can move the world” stated Archimedes so long ago that it even pre-dates me!
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I’ve only used one brand of stuffer a F. D i c k from Germany. I have the 30 pound unit and have used it for many years. When looking at other stuffers, this brand seems to have a much narrower cylinder and piston. It is a VERY tall unit and very heavy. I have only used the fast gearing to raise the cylinder, and always used the slower gearing to stuff casing, including 16 to 18 mm sheep. Never had a problem. Threaded systems allow for only one speed and those old units were made for multiple functions, fruit press, meat stuffing, juicer. Never have I compared handle length, which is like a lever - “give me a lever and I can move the world” stated Archimedes so long ago that it even pre-dates me!
Chef
Given the brand, I would expect your stuffer is top quality in every way.I saw a small F. Dick stuffer on F.B. Marketplace recently and was tempted to make an inquiry, but it was pretty far from me. I see today it is gone.
The seller was only asking $250.Paul
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Chef
Given the brand, I would expect your stuffer is top quality in every way.I saw a small F. Dick stuffer on F.B. Marketplace recently and was tempted to make an inquiry, but it was pretty far from me. I see today it is gone.
The seller was only asking $250.processhead that was a good price. Was it the 12 pound unit?
That one does have a threaded shaft, but it is still a two speed gearing. They really are an heirloom. I have had to change the rubber 0-ring and the air valve vent. Rubber just hardened over time. -
processhead that was a good price. Was it the 12 pound unit?
That one does have a threaded shaft, but it is still a two speed gearing. They really are an heirloom. I have had to change the rubber 0-ring and the air valve vent. Rubber just hardened over time.Yes, 12 lb unit. Looked to be in good condition.
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For a long time I used an 8 Qt. Enterprise stuffer that was my Dad’s. It was a one-piece unit, no removable cylinder and was just a beast to move around and clean. The units with the removable cylinder are a lot more user friendly but probably not quite as durable.
Like any cast iron equipment, they don’t tolerate being dropped and need to be coated with white oil as soon as they are washed or will rust quickly.
Paul
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For a long time I used an 8 Qt. Enterprise stuffer that was my Dad’s. It was a one-piece unit, no removable cylinder and was just a beast to move around and clean. The units with the removable cylinder are a lot more user friendly but probably not quite as durable.
Like any cast iron equipment, they don’t tolerate being dropped and need to be coated with white oil as soon as they are washed or will rust quickly.processhead Beautiful setup. is the silver Dutch oven cast iron?
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processhead Beautiful setup. is the silver Dutch oven cast iron?
Chef said in Equipment Category:
processhead Beautiful setup. is the silver Dutch oven cast iron?
It is not cast iron. It is a Wagnerware cast aluminum/alloy oven.
Paul
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Chef said in Equipment Category:
processhead Beautiful setup. is the silver Dutch oven cast iron?
It is not cast iron. It is a Wagnerware cast aluminum/alloy oven.
processhead Great setup. I would love to find one of the Wagnerware aluminum ovens. I have several CI pieces, but not that. I live about 50 miles from where Wagnerware was made. I am hoping to run across one someday.
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I’ve only used one brand of stuffer a F. D i c k from Germany. I have the 30 pound unit and have used it for many years. When looking at other stuffers, this brand seems to have a much narrower cylinder and piston. It is a VERY tall unit and very heavy. I have only used the fast gearing to raise the cylinder, and always used the slower gearing to stuff casing, including 16 to 18 mm sheep. Never had a problem. Threaded systems allow for only one speed and those old units were made for multiple functions, fruit press, meat stuffing, juicer. Never have I compared handle length, which is like a lever - “give me a lever and I can move the world” stated Archimedes so long ago that it even pre-dates me!
Steven Winscot What brand is the stuffer it kind of looks like the Old Optima I rebuilt, had machine shop modify stuffer plate from leather gasket to O ring what a difference in making snack sticks. I would love to find a matching smaller diamater stuffer plate and cylinder for making snack sticks as it still takes a lot of mussel to turn the crank and I have went to using a ratchet instead of the crank for snack sticks.!
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Steven Winscot What brand is the stuffer it kind of looks like the Old Optima I rebuilt, had machine shop modify stuffer plate from leather gasket to O ring what a difference in making snack sticks. I would love to find a matching smaller diamater stuffer plate and cylinder for making snack sticks as it still takes a lot of mussel to turn the crank and I have went to using a ratchet instead of the crank for snack sticks.!
akdave I purchased that back in the mid 80’s from the Sausage Maker (Rytek Kutas) They came out of Poland and sold for $749. The plate was solid cast aluminum and had no gasket, canister was galvanized, so was the base. They have new models very similar with improvements, O ring and pressure relief valve on the plate, the plate is heavy poly and the gears seem to be the same along with the cast housing. they are very similar to the early F. Dick models before they went to the all stainless housing. It takes 2 people to stuff and the smaller the tube the harder it is to crank. When stuffing snack sticks it is beneficial to add water for easier cranking.
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mdseaside said in Equipment Category:
processhead I tried that very same theory on my stuffer. Didn’t work out quite as planned. I had to replace all the gears the longer handle striped out. Lesson learned, I your mix is to stiff to stuff add a little bit more water.
Sorry to hear that. What brand of stuffer was it?
The two stuffer’s that I have extended the handles on were both antique cast iron stuffers and build like tanks.
processhead My stuffer is a Weston 11lb. model with two speed gear box. Good quality and well built machine. Was definitely user error. A good craftsman never blames his tools.
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Not sure if this is the right place to post this question by here goes. All mixing instructions says to mix one way half the time then half the time the reverse way. I have a 3/4 horse LEM mixer and a 25 lb mixer attachment for it. For the life of me I can not figure out how to reverse the rotation for mixing. Is there a trick to it?? Thanks for any help!!
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