Best Caliber for Deer and maybe larger
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My two cents.
I think a lot of it comes down to the terrain you are hunting. Brush, wooded, swamp or open fields. Distance you ae shooting is a factor. For instance, heavily wooded land doesn’t require a large caliber or “faster” round, where as, open range does.I’ve used a Marlin 30-30 for the last forty years as does my one son. Our typical shot is less than a 100 yards. My other two sons use a 30-06 and 7mm. They all do the job. No tracking required.
Ultimately, you want the knock down power.
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My two cents.
I think a lot of it comes down to the terrain you are hunting. Brush, wooded, swamp or open fields. Distance you ae shooting is a factor. For instance, heavily wooded land doesn’t require a large caliber or “faster” round, where as, open range does.I’ve used a Marlin 30-30 for the last forty years as does my one son. Our typical shot is less than a 100 yards. My other two sons use a 30-06 and 7mm. They all do the job. No tracking required.
Ultimately, you want the knock down power.
PapaSop Another excellent point. Just about anything will do, if you can place the shot right, consistently. There again, I had better keep my mouth shut regarding the rest of the story, for now.
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For an all around great gun, my vote is the 30-06. They all have good things about them. I own 6 different calibers, but seem to always go back to the 06. As pointed out in another post, ammo might be hard to find. I am sure you know someone who has a 30-06 you could borrow shells from
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So, like I said I am trying to make this the year I actually get out deer hunting, did it twice when I was a kid in upstate NY but that was almost 25 years ago. I am looking at a rifle that is good for deer and possibly Elk. Right now I am looking between 7mm, 30-06, or 6.5 Creedmoor. I don’t care much about preserving for the mount, more concerned with the ability to possibly go after larger game.
Hopefully I am not about to start a riot.
Jonathon OMG YOU ARE TRYING TO START AN ALL OUT WAR!!! That’s how it would go on any other social media platform when you ask a question like this. But as you can see us folks here are so much different than the other platforms. My first thought was “boy he’s gone and done it this time” lol. All jokes aside you will get many opinions on this subject as folks have all different preferences on what they like and how the firearm fits them as well as how it shoots with accuracy. All comments have been very good information for you, although you probably have not received a definite answer to your question. One question I have is what is the yardage you plan to be shooting? For whitetails there are a large array of calibers that can achieve a lethal harvest. For elk that caliber starts out a bit higher however, with proper bullet placement even the smallest caliber can be lethal for either animal but it comes down to respect and true sportsmanship for a quick lethal expiration.
Here is my 2 cents, for whitetail my wife shoots a $250 .243 Savage Stevens. That gun is phenomenal for coming right out of the box. The trigger is light, smooth, crisp and short. It shoots 100gr soft point bullets and man it does a number on the deer!! But I would not shoot an animal past 300 yards with it.
I had a $250 7mm mag Savage Stevens that my son now has. It definitely did not have the trigger my wife’s gun has, was like dragging it through gravel the entire way before it finally fired. Although it was a good gun harvest wise I wanted something better. So I did a lot of research and compared all calibers from .243 up to 7mm mag. I printed out all the ballistic info and layed them all out on the floor categorizing from flattest shooting trajectory to kinetic energy from muzzle to 1000 yards. Which lead me to the top dog of the 26 Nosler.The 26 Nosler M48 Long Range I chose with gun and scope combo is a $6000 unit. It is easily a 1000 yard gun if the shooter is capable of it. Not everyone is capable of shooting 1000 yards no matter what caliber is being used. It’s a special talent. Furthest deer I have harvested so far is 498 yards. Now most people think I have absolutely lost my mind for spending that kind of coin on a hunting rifle. But like you I wanted versatility, if I was shooting across mountain sides I wanted to be able to do that cleanly and lethally. My ammo is $98 for a box of 20 rounds.
For you starting out and wanting to be versatile I would recommend a 30-06, 308 or 7mm mag. For whitetails stay around 140gr -150gr accubond bullet. For elk step up to 180gr accubond. If tight on cash I wouldn’t go too cheap on the rifle but definitely stick every penny you can in great optics. A proper break in period sequence is a critical time in getting the best accuracy for your new rifle which includes a final sequence of 60 rounds with a bunch of bore cleaning in between, I can get you that sequence when you get to that point. Then it will take you I bet another 20 rounds to get happily sighted in with three round groups.
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Jonathon OMG YOU ARE TRYING TO START AN ALL OUT WAR!!! That’s how it would go on any other social media platform when you ask a question like this. But as you can see us folks here are so much different than the other platforms. My first thought was “boy he’s gone and done it this time” lol. All jokes aside you will get many opinions on this subject as folks have all different preferences on what they like and how the firearm fits them as well as how it shoots with accuracy. All comments have been very good information for you, although you probably have not received a definite answer to your question. One question I have is what is the yardage you plan to be shooting? For whitetails there are a large array of calibers that can achieve a lethal harvest. For elk that caliber starts out a bit higher however, with proper bullet placement even the smallest caliber can be lethal for either animal but it comes down to respect and true sportsmanship for a quick lethal expiration.
Here is my 2 cents, for whitetail my wife shoots a $250 .243 Savage Stevens. That gun is phenomenal for coming right out of the box. The trigger is light, smooth, crisp and short. It shoots 100gr soft point bullets and man it does a number on the deer!! But I would not shoot an animal past 300 yards with it.
I had a $250 7mm mag Savage Stevens that my son now has. It definitely did not have the trigger my wife’s gun has, was like dragging it through gravel the entire way before it finally fired. Although it was a good gun harvest wise I wanted something better. So I did a lot of research and compared all calibers from .243 up to 7mm mag. I printed out all the ballistic info and layed them all out on the floor categorizing from flattest shooting trajectory to kinetic energy from muzzle to 1000 yards. Which lead me to the top dog of the 26 Nosler.The 26 Nosler M48 Long Range I chose with gun and scope combo is a $6000 unit. It is easily a 1000 yard gun if the shooter is capable of it. Not everyone is capable of shooting 1000 yards no matter what caliber is being used. It’s a special talent. Furthest deer I have harvested so far is 498 yards. Now most people think I have absolutely lost my mind for spending that kind of coin on a hunting rifle. But like you I wanted versatility, if I was shooting across mountain sides I wanted to be able to do that cleanly and lethally. My ammo is $98 for a box of 20 rounds.
For you starting out and wanting to be versatile I would recommend a 30-06, 308 or 7mm mag. For whitetails stay around 140gr -150gr accubond bullet. For elk step up to 180gr accubond. If tight on cash I wouldn’t go too cheap on the rifle but definitely stick every penny you can in great optics. A proper break in period sequence is a critical time in getting the best accuracy for your new rifle which includes a final sequence of 60 rounds with a bunch of bore cleaning in between, I can get you that sequence when you get to that point. Then it will take you I bet another 20 rounds to get happily sighted in with three round groups.
twilliams Wow, What a Review, & a rifle to boot! That is damned near a sniper rifle, but a nice one. Sadly to say, it is a bit out of my league in the price, but if I had the opportunity, & the opportunity to put it to good use, that is an excellent choice on the weapon & choose your caliber just about. Great Job, Great Review!
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So, like I said I am trying to make this the year I actually get out deer hunting, did it twice when I was a kid in upstate NY but that was almost 25 years ago. I am looking at a rifle that is good for deer and possibly Elk. Right now I am looking between 7mm, 30-06, or 6.5 Creedmoor. I don’t care much about preserving for the mount, more concerned with the ability to possibly go after larger game.
Hopefully I am not about to start a riot.
Jonathon oh and one more thing I forgot to mention, my opinion make sure it is a bolt action or single shot and not a semi auto. Bolt actions are much more accurate not only mechanically but mentally as well. When you know you may not have enough time for a second shot you make the first one count. With a semi auto people tend to get trigger happy and eject 5 shells in seconds with no or little results. Wounding an animal is the worst feeling, I watch my buddy do it every year with his semi auto. It’s gut wrenching and literally boils my blood.
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Jonathon oh and one more thing I forgot to mention, my opinion make sure it is a bolt action or single shot and not a semi auto. Bolt actions are much more accurate not only mechanically but mentally as well. When you know you may not have enough time for a second shot you make the first one count. With a semi auto people tend to get trigger happy and eject 5 shells in seconds with no or little results. Wounding an animal is the worst feeling, I watch my buddy do it every year with his semi auto. It’s gut wrenching and literally boils my blood.
twilliams Spot On, other than a single shot, like a Ruger #1, which I also really like. However, you better have a plan B & Back-up, just in case, if you can. That is where the Bolt Action comes into play. Definitely stay away from the Semi Auto. Nothing wrong with a good Lever Action either, in some cases. But the Bolt is always the best bet.
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There are lots of calibers that will kill deer and elk effectively.
No rifle or cartridge caliber can compensate for poor marksmanship or poor shot placement.
I would argue more game is lost due to the poor marksmanship/shot placement than to someone who wasn’t carrying a rifle chambered in the “best caliber”I would recommend borrowing a rifle now if you have to and spend some serious time at the range. Also remember, deer hunting is different than shooting off a bench at the range. Sometimes while hunting you are shooting from awkward positions in bad light and crappy weather.
After your rifle is sighted-in, target practice under realistic field conditions is a better way to prepare for a hunt than just popping off rounds from a bench with sandbags or a rest.
As far actual chamberings, I like the .270 Winchester (non-magnum). Great for deer and with heavier bullets adequate for elk. As others have mentioned, 30-06 is a excellent choice and the recoil and ammo price won’t beat you to death like some magnum calibers can. If a rifle recoils so hard you can’t stand to practice with it, it makes it more difficult to get proficient with it.
During normal times, calibers like .270 Win. 30-06, and .308 Win. are readily available at stores like Walmart and other small-town businesses that might not carry more exotic calibers.
These days, ammo availability can be hit or miss on most calibers, but getting better around here.
processhead perfectly stated! Know your gun and know how to shoot.
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There are lots of calibers that will kill deer and elk effectively.
No rifle or cartridge caliber can compensate for poor marksmanship or poor shot placement.
I would argue more game is lost due to the poor marksmanship/shot placement than to someone who wasn’t carrying a rifle chambered in the “best caliber”I would recommend borrowing a rifle now if you have to and spend some serious time at the range. Also remember, deer hunting is different than shooting off a bench at the range. Sometimes while hunting you are shooting from awkward positions in bad light and crappy weather.
After your rifle is sighted-in, target practice under realistic field conditions is a better way to prepare for a hunt than just popping off rounds from a bench with sandbags or a rest.
As far actual chamberings, I like the .270 Winchester (non-magnum). Great for deer and with heavier bullets adequate for elk. As others have mentioned, 30-06 is a excellent choice and the recoil and ammo price won’t beat you to death like some magnum calibers can. If a rifle recoils so hard you can’t stand to practice with it, it makes it more difficult to get proficient with it.
During normal times, calibers like .270 Win. 30-06, and .308 Win. are readily available at stores like Walmart and other small-town businesses that might not carry more exotic calibers.
These days, ammo availability can be hit or miss on most calibers, but getting better around here.
processhead I wish I had bought the equipment a long time ago to load my own, when I could. I still have lots of casings, lots. But never did start re-loading as much as I wanted. I suppose it was about like beer making, but I am going to get to the beer brewing at least, one way or the other.
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On a side note I would go with a composite stock what ever caliber you choose to buy, lighter and don’t worry about scratches.
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On a side note I would go with a composite stock what ever caliber you choose to buy, lighter and don’t worry about scratches.
bocephus said in Best Caliber for Deer and maybe larger:
On a side note I would go with a composite stock what ever caliber you choose to buy, lighter and don’t worry about scratches.
Unless you really appreciate the grain in a nicely figured walnut stock.
I am old school, and really like wood stocks, even if they get a abused a bit in use. Rifles are tools, and tools are for using.Yeah I appreciate the practicality of composite stocks, but like I said, old school.
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bocephus said in Best Caliber for Deer and maybe larger:
On a side note I would go with a composite stock what ever caliber you choose to buy, lighter and don’t worry about scratches.
Unless you really appreciate the grain in a nicely figured walnut stock.
I am old school, and really like wood stocks, even if they get a abused a bit in use. Rifles are tools, and tools are for using.Yeah I appreciate the practicality of composite stocks, but like I said, old school.
processhead I have synthetic & stainless in my 6mm-08 & a synthetic in my 835 Ulti-mag & they are alright. However, I too really appreciate the grain & beauty of the wood & have re-worked or made a few of them new in years past & really like that wood too.
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So, like I said I am trying to make this the year I actually get out deer hunting, did it twice when I was a kid in upstate NY but that was almost 25 years ago. I am looking at a rifle that is good for deer and possibly Elk. Right now I am looking between 7mm, 30-06, or 6.5 Creedmoor. I don’t care much about preserving for the mount, more concerned with the ability to possibly go after larger game.
Hopefully I am not about to start a riot.
Jonathon great discussion here. Just an FYI, my MOS in the Marine Corps was 8541. Thats the designator for Scott Sniper. I by no means pretend to know everything about ballistics or firearms, but I’ve used them (firearms) professionally for over 3 decades and picked up a few tricks along the way from people alot smarter than me. I can tell you that every caliber mentioned here would do the job on the large game in North America if used properly with the right ammo. What you may want to consider is the cost of quality ammo for the long term in the caliber you chose. processhead hit the nail on the head; most of this boils down to marksmanship so factor in practice ammo. I zero and train with the exact round I hunt with. I will also add that putting the proper glass (scope) on the rifle is IMHO is as important as the brand of rifle and caliber. Most quality modern rifles will outshoot the shooter. I know it sounds like getting a bigger gun/caliber would do it all, but I’m a firm believer in using the right tool for the job. I would take any of these recommendations and figure out how far you plan on making your average shot and base my decision on that with the game you want to take down. Keep in mind that some of the bigger bore rifles in a bolt action will slap the taste out of your mouth. Also look at the overall weight of the weapon and how far you plan on humping into the woods with it. My 2 cents. I hope this helps some.
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Jonathon great discussion here. Just an FYI, my MOS in the Marine Corps was 8541. Thats the designator for Scott Sniper. I by no means pretend to know everything about ballistics or firearms, but I’ve used them (firearms) professionally for over 3 decades and picked up a few tricks along the way from people alot smarter than me. I can tell you that every caliber mentioned here would do the job on the large game in North America if used properly with the right ammo. What you may want to consider is the cost of quality ammo for the long term in the caliber you chose. processhead hit the nail on the head; most of this boils down to marksmanship so factor in practice ammo. I zero and train with the exact round I hunt with. I will also add that putting the proper glass (scope) on the rifle is IMHO is as important as the brand of rifle and caliber. Most quality modern rifles will outshoot the shooter. I know it sounds like getting a bigger gun/caliber would do it all, but I’m a firm believer in using the right tool for the job. I would take any of these recommendations and figure out how far you plan on making your average shot and base my decision on that with the game you want to take down. Keep in mind that some of the bigger bore rifles in a bolt action will slap the taste out of your mouth. Also look at the overall weight of the weapon and how far you plan on humping into the woods with it. My 2 cents. I hope this helps some.
GWG8541 More Excellent Points. I suppose we just cannot say enough, beyond practice, practice, practice, & then some more. Of course like GWG8541 said head on & I alluded to, make sure you have something you are comfortable with, so you will still be interested in practicing tomorrow. Without that, it all a NO GO. Well, unless you are just a flat out BA.
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GWG8541 More Excellent Points. I suppose we just cannot say enough, beyond practice, practice, practice, & then some more. Of course like GWG8541 said head on & I alluded to, make sure you have something you are comfortable with, so you will still be interested in practicing tomorrow. Without that, it all a NO GO. Well, unless you are just a flat out BA.
calldoctoday or stupid, sometimes being stupid helps better than being a BA.
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calldoctoday or stupid, sometimes being stupid helps better than being a BA.
GWG8541 OK, I will buy that! I am really laughing hard now.
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So, like I said I am trying to make this the year I actually get out deer hunting, did it twice when I was a kid in upstate NY but that was almost 25 years ago. I am looking at a rifle that is good for deer and possibly Elk. Right now I am looking between 7mm, 30-06, or 6.5 Creedmoor. I don’t care much about preserving for the mount, more concerned with the ability to possibly go after larger game.
Hopefully I am not about to start a riot.
Jonathon I agree with Tex_77 about the Meat Eater site and processhead makes several good points. I have shot and taken several large game animals with many different calibers. Personally I am partial to the 30-06 because it’s wide range of bullet weights, ammo available, cost, etc… Magnums have the umph…, will reach out and deliver, but you need to be proficient to use it’s capabilities. The farther you shoot the more weather, wind, placement, etc… becomes a bigger factor. The cost of the ammo and finding what you practiced with on the road can be sketchy. They are typically heavier which you will notice after a day in the field. Then there is the recoil, I have never noticed it taking game, but by round 5 at the range it becomes very noticeable. Find a friend that shoots and try out what they have, bring some ammo to use or replace and learn what you like and dislike. Once you buy one firearm you will want to buy another.
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My two cents.
I think a lot of it comes down to the terrain you are hunting. Brush, wooded, swamp or open fields. Distance you ae shooting is a factor. For instance, heavily wooded land doesn’t require a large caliber or “faster” round, where as, open range does.I’ve used a Marlin 30-30 for the last forty years as does my one son. Our typical shot is less than a 100 yards. My other two sons use a 30-06 and 7mm. They all do the job. No tracking required.
Ultimately, you want the knock down power.
PapaSop said in Best Caliber for Deer and maybe larger:
My two cents.
I think a lot of it comes down to the terrain you are hunting. Brush, wooded, swamp or open fields. Distance you ae shooting is a factor. For instance, heavily wooded land doesn’t require a large caliber or “faster” round, where as, open range does.I’ve used a Marlin 30-30 for the last forty years as does my one son. Our typical shot is less than a 100 yards. My other two sons use a 30-06 and 7mm. They all do the job. No tracking required.
Ultimately, you want the knock down power.
I love my Marlin 30-30. I don’t shoot it near as much as I used to. If your in close quarter combat with a deer, nothing blows a leg off like a 30-30.
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PapaSop said in Best Caliber for Deer and maybe larger:
My two cents.
I think a lot of it comes down to the terrain you are hunting. Brush, wooded, swamp or open fields. Distance you ae shooting is a factor. For instance, heavily wooded land doesn’t require a large caliber or “faster” round, where as, open range does.I’ve used a Marlin 30-30 for the last forty years as does my one son. Our typical shot is less than a 100 yards. My other two sons use a 30-06 and 7mm. They all do the job. No tracking required.
Ultimately, you want the knock down power.
I love my Marlin 30-30. I don’t shoot it near as much as I used to. If your in close quarter combat with a deer, nothing blows a leg off like a 30-30.
Grimpuppy if I am in the cedar swamps that is my gun of choice. I did shoot one at 300yds across a farm field. Didn’t have the energy to knock him down, but did take out both lungs. Had to do some tracking, but all ended well.
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PapaSop said in Best Caliber for Deer and maybe larger:
My two cents.
I think a lot of it comes down to the terrain you are hunting. Brush, wooded, swamp or open fields. Distance you ae shooting is a factor. For instance, heavily wooded land doesn’t require a large caliber or “faster” round, where as, open range does.I’ve used a Marlin 30-30 for the last forty years as does my one son. Our typical shot is less than a 100 yards. My other two sons use a 30-06 and 7mm. They all do the job. No tracking required.
Ultimately, you want the knock down power.
I love my Marlin 30-30. I don’t shoot it near as much as I used to. If your in close quarter combat with a deer, nothing blows a leg off like a 30-30.
Grimpuppy since I got a doe tag this year I am going to use my Grandpa’s Winchester 94 in 30-30. He shot many deer with that gun. I was with him when he shot his last deer and that was around 1990. He gave me that gun in about 2000. I’m really looking forward to it just because of the connection to him. I know he will be with me in spirit.
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