New Groups to Help Everyone on Smokers
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PapaSop Yes, flare up plus. The top air flow control does not close all the way and since the tube was directly in the intake cylinder I had a runaway. I’m going to see if I can modify the top air flow control.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day
Teach a man to fish and he drinks beer for a lifetime -
PapaSop Yes, flare up plus. The top air flow control does not close all the way and since the tube was directly in the intake cylinder I had a runaway. I’m going to see if I can modify the top air flow control.
glen
Guess I’m not familiar with the intake cylinder part. Can you just lay it on a rack off to the side? Can you send a pic or model number. Curious what the smoker looks like. -
glen
Guess I’m not familiar with the intake cylinder part. Can you just lay it on a rack off to the side? Can you send a pic or model number. Curious what the smoker looks like.PapaSop I have the MES 130 P Bluetooth smoker. What I tried was inserting a 6" Amazin smoke tube into the chip loading tube. But yes, I can and will lay it on the rack from now on
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smokin greg Some sort of extra insulation is probably the best thing as 2 1,000 watt plates in a 30 cubic foot smoker seems sufficient?
Jonathon said in New Groups to Help Everyone on Smokers:
smokin greg Some sort of extra insulation is probably the best thing as 2 1,000 watt plates in a 30 cubic foot smoker seems sufficient?
Go to U-Haul and steel some moving blankets. They work great when you need a little extra.
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I just spray cocoa nut, olive, or pam or peanut oil on my rack to facilitate easy cleaning, depending on what I am smoking. Is that what you are talking about?
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I got some of the very inexpensive welding blankets & moving blankets from harbor freight when they were having a sale several years ago when I needed that for something. It worked, but be careful as they cannot handle too much heat if you get them close to the firebox.
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Well, you still have to clean them, there is no question about that. However, from experience, it comes much easier than nothing. The only other thing would be food grade silicone, like you use with your grinders, etc. However, I don’t know how well that would really work on a rack that that is in direct contact with the meat. That is a good question!
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An hour is way too long. I am just talking a quick spray down afterwards or a quick rub with some balled up aluminum foil. A trip to the dishwasher every now & then.
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An hour is way too long. I am just talking a quick spray down afterwards or a quick rub with some balled up aluminum foil. A trip to the dishwasher every now & then.
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If you use that, make sure you really rinse it & rinse it well. There is something stronger that you can use that is not so toxic, but I cannot think of it right now. They do not necessarily have to be perfectly pristine clean. Try cleaning them right after you cook until waiting until cooking next time, that can help. Otherwise a good stiff brush or Aluminum foil bunched up with get the tops clean enough without damaging the porcelain.
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Pardon me on that. I thought the pit boss was one of those vertical smokers with the multiple smaller racks, my apologies for confusing it with another.
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What about just using a good scrub down (still using the pre-spray) outside with a good soapy water solution & a steel wool pan scrubbing pad. That is really probably your best bet combined with the pre-spray. It should just not be that difficult & that will get them squeaky clean without all the harsh chemicals.
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That is what I use if I want it squeaky clean (every now & then) with soapy water. We use the commercial grade Dawn & water. It is easier as I mentioned earlier if you do it while the grates are still warm, but I know that is a pain to have to do when you want to serve & eat (believe me, I do not do it then). We have also soaked ours in a tub of soapy water if it was real bad for a while to help soften it up. I keep thinking the extra heavy duty way that we have done a time or two over maybe 40 plus years of doing our own smoking & grilling was to mix about a cup of baking soda in a gallon of hot water & mix it real well, then add about a cup of white vinegar to that & set the grates into a tub with that solution & let them soak for a few hours. That is really rare though for us to have grates that are so died in the wool of debris that will not come off to have to do that though. The pre-sprays should be helping you a lot.
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we keep the streel wool pads (not the ones with soap already in them) for a hard scrub on stainless steel pans & the cast iron too (but no soap ever used). They work real well for either including the grates (on the Blue moon that we use them for that) & they last a long time & they are cheap.
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