Smoking/Cooking Schedule
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mrobisr said in Smoking/Cooking Schedule:
Retired157 when cutting stainless steel you push hard and fast with lots of breaks. Stainless does not distribute heat at all, so slow just burns up bits as you have witnessed. I had to learn the hard way too, but once you figure it out it is straight forward.
Do you use a regular hole saw with a metal cutting ring? I’ve always worried about it drifting off when it meets the soft insulation inside.
marzig20 i used a bi-metal dewalt hole saw
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mrobisr said in Smoking/Cooking Schedule:
Retired157 when cutting stainless steel you push hard and fast with lots of breaks. Stainless does not distribute heat at all, so slow just burns up bits as you have witnessed. I had to learn the hard way too, but once you figure it out it is straight forward.
Do you use a regular hole saw with a metal cutting ring? I’ve always worried about it drifting off when it meets the soft insulation inside.
marzig20 the hole saws i use have a pilot bit to help with the drifting.
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mrobisr so the pilot drill makes contact on the other side to maintain concentricity of the hole?
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Retired157 said in Smoking/Cooking Schedule:
I don’t even know what a PID is
I’m learning too, this a great community to learn from. PID from my understanding is a smart thermostat. It will learn the characteristics of your smoker and will self adjust to maintain a more consistent temp.
marzig20 said in Smoking/Cooking Schedule:
Retired157 said in Smoking/Cooking Schedule:
I don’t even know what a PID is
I’m learning too, this a great community to learn from. PID from my understanding is a smart thermostat. It will learn the characteristics of your smoker and will self adjust to maintain a more consistent temp.
PID’s turn on and off what ever you are controlling to keep a constant temp and yes they have algorithm to maintain the temp very close. You can also set parameters like to cool on at 2f and turn heat on at 5f above a preset temp.
Example I want 55f and 80% humidity in my chamber, for the temp I have a 3f turn on of cooling, so when the temp reached 58f the cooling turns on and cools down to 55f then shuts off.
The humidity is set for 80% with a 2% low and 5% high, so when the humidity reaches 78% the humidifier turns on until it reaches 80% and if the humidity reaches 85% then it turns on the dehumifier.My other 240v PID turns the heating element on and off sometimes for only a second to maintain whatever temp I have it set to the tenth of a degree.
Hope this helps.
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I currently have a Pro Smoker Pk-100 that I modified and wired in a Auber PID controller. I am now searching for a way to control the humidity in my smoker. If anyone has information on a electronic humidifier and controller I would greatly appreciate the information. I am also looking to add a circulation fan to even out the hot spots.
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I currently have a Pro Smoker Pk-100 that I modified and wired in a Auber PID controller. I am now searching for a way to control the humidity in my smoker. If anyone has information on a electronic humidifier and controller I would greatly appreciate the information. I am also looking to add a circulation fan to even out the hot spots.
mfrievalt call prosmoker and ask them for info on their 100SS model. Mine has an internal fan and an exhaust fan out the chimney. Not sure if mine would be too big for your cabin space with only the single coil burner. As far as humidity, this group has tried everything to get there. Best thing jon has came up with is the water pan and auto sponges and chamois. Again the big units have wet bulbs and moisture capabilities but i dont think it can be incorporated on the pk100
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I currently have a Pro Smoker Pk-100 that I modified and wired in a Auber PID controller. I am now searching for a way to control the humidity in my smoker. If anyone has information on a electronic humidifier and controller I would greatly appreciate the information. I am also looking to add a circulation fan to even out the hot spots.
mfrievalt Inkbird Temperature and Humidity Controller ITC-608T
it does both or you can get one that does one or the other. This controler is what i use to control this Inkbird Reptile Humidifier Fogger. -
I currently have a Pro Smoker Pk-100 that I modified and wired in a Auber PID controller. I am now searching for a way to control the humidity in my smoker. If anyone has information on a electronic humidifier and controller I would greatly appreciate the information. I am also looking to add a circulation fan to even out the hot spots.
mfrievalt for a fan i use this AC Infinity AXIAL 9225, Muffin Fan, 120V AC 92mm by 92mm by 25mm High Speed
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mfrievalt call prosmoker and ask them for info on their 100SS model. Mine has an internal fan and an exhaust fan out the chimney. Not sure if mine would be too big for your cabin space with only the single coil burner. As far as humidity, this group has tried everything to get there. Best thing jon has came up with is the water pan and auto sponges and chamois. Again the big units have wet bulbs and moisture capabilities but i dont think it can be incorporated on the pk100
twilliams “As far as humidity, this group has tried everything to get there”
I made the suggestion for a reptile fogger a while back and nobody had tried it and I haven’t either, but I haven’t needed any added humidity in my smoker. I use it for my drying chamber and it really puts a nice gently fog out. It may or may not work for smokers, but since the unit is exterior and the hose can be pointed in any direction I’m thinking it just might work.
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I like to think of it like this low heat 125ish For 1 -2 hours to dry the casings and prepare to take smoke
Next 130 ish to smoke and finally to that 155 degree to cookDo yourself a big favor and do not trust the thermometer on the smoker door get a good dual probe that you can monitor the actual temp in the smoker and second probe right in the middle of a sausage which is close to the middle of your smoker. I have found that the bimetal thermometers on the smokers are very inaccurate. Last thing you want to do after all your work is overcook and dry out the product… and hey don’t forget to add some hi temp cheese for a real treat, GOOD LUCK
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I like to think of it like this low heat 125ish For 1 -2 hours to dry the casings and prepare to take smoke
Next 130 ish to smoke and finally to that 155 degree to cookDo yourself a big favor and do not trust the thermometer on the smoker door get a good dual probe that you can monitor the actual temp in the smoker and second probe right in the middle of a sausage which is close to the middle of your smoker. I have found that the bimetal thermometers on the smokers are very inaccurate. Last thing you want to do after all your work is overcook and dry out the product… and hey don’t forget to add some hi temp cheese for a real treat, GOOD LUCK
Wow… never thought about that solution! I actually did purchase a dual probe monitor but was going to use both probes in my (two) sausages. That little ‘trick’ would have saved me a little $$. Rest assured, I will take advantage of your advice. Where do you ‘locate’ the probe you use to monitor the smoker’s temp… middle? Yes; I am just about ready to make my last order for some ‘spices’, etc. and hi temp cheese is on my list. My first run will be a standard SS using Walton’s H-Summer. If all works out, bring on the ‘heat’. Thanks for advice… if nothing else, my door gauge looks cool!
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Maybe a little late for your project, but heat is what kills a hole saw when working with metals and especially SS. The heat draws the temper from the saw teeth and then they quickly dull and round off.
Something I learned that works great is to spray a stream of water on the area being drilled/ cut. Done correctly, water will keep the work piece and the saw blade cooler and cutting well.
I had to cut a hole in my SS smoker cabinet to install a pellet igniter. It worked great. Wish I had known about this trick years ago.
This works great when cutting with a saber saw too.Paul
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Maybe a little late for your project, but heat is what kills a hole saw when working with metals and especially SS. The heat draws the temper from the saw teeth and then they quickly dull and round off.
Something I learned that works great is to spray a stream of water on the area being drilled/ cut. Done correctly, water will keep the work piece and the saw blade cooler and cutting well.
I had to cut a hole in my SS smoker cabinet to install a pellet igniter. It worked great. Wish I had known about this trick years ago.
This works great when cutting with a saber saw too.Yeah, no doubt ‘heat’ is the enemy when drilling. I actually worked hard at preventing it. I think the ‘trick’ to maybe beating the heat issue when drilling SS, came from another post/‘Tipster’ above… don’t continue drilling. Drill a little… stop… let everything cool… drill a little more… stop for cool down… REPEAT until done. Using a quality ‘lube’ (which I did) will absolutely help but maybe ‘not rushing’ the job is the secret. One thing for sure, even those DeWalt bi-metal hole saws were no match for SS! Hey but in the end, I got the hole I wanted. Calling it a ‘win’ may be debatable.
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Yeah, no doubt ‘heat’ is the enemy when drilling. I actually worked hard at preventing it. I think the ‘trick’ to maybe beating the heat issue when drilling SS, came from another post/‘Tipster’ above… don’t continue drilling. Drill a little… stop… let everything cool… drill a little more… stop for cool down… REPEAT until done. Using a quality ‘lube’ (which I did) will absolutely help but maybe ‘not rushing’ the job is the secret. One thing for sure, even those DeWalt bi-metal hole saws were no match for SS! Hey but in the end, I got the hole I wanted. Calling it a ‘win’ may be debatable.
Retired157 the machinist that gave me that hint even said no oil, push as hard as you can. My first bit didn’t even hardly scratch the surface, but when I used his technique and really pushed it and took breaks the bit went through it and didn’t dull as I still use it today.
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Bi-metal bits don’t work well on S/S, I have carbide tipped bits designed to drill S/S. I bought them to drill holes in S/S kegs, they have a pilot as well.
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Bi-metal bits don’t work well on S/S, I have carbide tipped bits designed to drill S/S. I bought them to drill holes in S/S kegs, they have a pilot as well.
johnsbrewhouse agreed, but if that is was you have it can work for a stainless steel pot or keg if you have the patience.
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johnsbrewhouse agreed, but if that is was you have it can work for a stainless steel pot or keg if you have the patience.
Ok, been doing a little research on these PID units that several of you are SUGGESTING as the way to go. Now I’m not exactly sure just how they totally ‘work’, but it does seem there are a lot of you guys out there using them with your smokers. Let me know what you think. I am looking at purchasing the following items for this project…
1-a Inkbird (kit) #ITC106-VH… includes the solid state relay and the K-Type thermocouple (see below)
2-a AC Infinity AXIAL 9225 Muffin Fan - 120V
3-a 3M K-Type 100mm Thermocouple Sensor Probe (it appears to me that the thermocouple which comes with the Inkbird will be to ‘short’ to effectively pass through the door of my SmokinTex). This one will be ‘long’ enough to get the job done.Obviously, once I have the components, I’ll have to ‘design’ a plan to incorporate their use in/with my SmokinTex smoker. If I am understanding the concept behind all of this, after plugging my smoker in/on, I would next turn its ‘factory’ heating element dial up to ‘some (?) higher’ temperature. Then, as I start my cooking schedule, I would input the various cooking (schedule) temperatures INTO the PID as I move through the various ‘stages’ of the cooking schedule. The PID would then adjust itself through the use of the fan… turning the fan on and off -moving the air through the smoker to keep the internal temperature of the smoker where I want it as per what I ‘input’.
If I have this ‘concept’ correct, I’d appreciate any input from those of you currently using a PID. It seems so ‘simple’ but maybe I am just NOT seeing the whole picture. Here’s a pic of my smoker again. What I am thinking is this, I’ll remove that thermometer and replace it with the thermocouple probe working with the PID. Then, where I have attached the vent, I’ll design a means of attaching the fan to (in front of) allow the ‘air flow’ to happen as determined by the PID.
Always happy for suggestions… cause right now I feel like I’m getting in over my head.
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Ok, been doing a little research on these PID units that several of you are SUGGESTING as the way to go. Now I’m not exactly sure just how they totally ‘work’, but it does seem there are a lot of you guys out there using them with your smokers. Let me know what you think. I am looking at purchasing the following items for this project…
1-a Inkbird (kit) #ITC106-VH… includes the solid state relay and the K-Type thermocouple (see below)
2-a AC Infinity AXIAL 9225 Muffin Fan - 120V
3-a 3M K-Type 100mm Thermocouple Sensor Probe (it appears to me that the thermocouple which comes with the Inkbird will be to ‘short’ to effectively pass through the door of my SmokinTex). This one will be ‘long’ enough to get the job done.Obviously, once I have the components, I’ll have to ‘design’ a plan to incorporate their use in/with my SmokinTex smoker. If I am understanding the concept behind all of this, after plugging my smoker in/on, I would next turn its ‘factory’ heating element dial up to ‘some (?) higher’ temperature. Then, as I start my cooking schedule, I would input the various cooking (schedule) temperatures INTO the PID as I move through the various ‘stages’ of the cooking schedule. The PID would then adjust itself through the use of the fan… turning the fan on and off -moving the air through the smoker to keep the internal temperature of the smoker where I want it as per what I ‘input’.
If I have this ‘concept’ correct, I’d appreciate any input from those of you currently using a PID. It seems so ‘simple’ but maybe I am just NOT seeing the whole picture. Here’s a pic of my smoker again. What I am thinking is this, I’ll remove that thermometer and replace it with the thermocouple probe working with the PID. Then, where I have attached the vent, I’ll design a means of attaching the fan to (in front of) allow the ‘air flow’ to happen as determined by the PID.
Always happy for suggestions… cause right now I feel like I’m getting in over my head.
Retired157
I have never heard of using a PID to control a fan to regulate temperature in an electric smoker like yours.I believe some guys are using them to regulate fans and temps in pellet grills by controlling the burn rate of the pellet burner .
My only experience is using the PID and an SSR to switch the electric heating element on an off and thereby control the smoker temperature that way.
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Wow… never thought about that solution! I actually did purchase a dual probe monitor but was going to use both probes in my (two) sausages. That little ‘trick’ would have saved me a little $$. Rest assured, I will take advantage of your advice. Where do you ‘locate’ the probe you use to monitor the smoker’s temp… middle? Yes; I am just about ready to make my last order for some ‘spices’, etc. and hi temp cheese is on my list. My first run will be a standard SS using Walton’s H-Summer. If all works out, bring on the ‘heat’. Thanks for advice… if nothing else, my door gauge looks cool!
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